Posted in sewing

Lacy Nightgown: Burda 11/2001 #131

Burda World of Fashion 11-2001-131

I apologize now for not being able to show this to you on either my persons or correctly on my dressform. Because the bust cups are lace, they were not exactly internet appropriate. At least not the kind of internet that is free. Sadly, I wasn’t able to get it on my dress form either because of the small bodice and lack of collapsible shoulders on the form.

Which is the perfect segway into the nightgown (or slip. Take your pick.) I’ve wanted a nice night gown for a while. Well, I’ve wanted *anything* nice to sleep in for a few years now. I’ve made pajama pants in flannel and a full outfit back in 2007 but nothing ‘nice’.

This is made up in a silk/cotton blend from India that was a gift from Bhoomhika. I like to sleep under a blanket no matter the temperature. So, I wanted something cool and breathable for summer. The fabric has a wonderful hand a gorgeous sheen. It does ravel like you would not believe so serging was a must.

The lace is from Etsy and is a mirror image.

I cut the size 38 grading to the 44 through the thighs. For the bust, I made a 1 inch FBA. Now that I’ve tried it on, I could have (and have since) added at another 1/2 inch.

I didn’t really follow the Burda directions. For this version they do not  cut the dress on the bias. But, knowing you’ll be sewing from silk, they provide the full pattern piece (since silk is not as wide and would be hard to cut on the fold).

For the the side lace that was not scalloped, I used clear elastic and turned it down. I also used a little clear elastic in the cups to have them snug up (you do this when sewing bras).

For the hem, I attached the lace on top of the silk/cotton. This is called a ‘reinforced’ method taken from my Sewing Lingerie from the Singer Sewing Reference Library. I would not use this method again for a hem that is not perfectly straight. The lace doesn’t lay smoothly. I didn’t think about this when I decided to use this method. And, it may be better suited to a double scalloped lace.

This color  looks really good on me despite my cups running over. I’m a tad sorry you can’t see me in it! I may send this to my mom. I’m narrower through the rib cage than her though so it might be tough for her to wear.

I’m debating another version in  a silky mint green.

If you’d like a slip or nightgown and don’t have a 10+ year old Burda, have I got great news for you! Pattern, Scissors, Cloth has a gorgeous slip called the Ruby Slip for *Free*. I should have just made this myself!

Posted in sewing

Sewy Rebecca Bra #FAIL

I took another go-round with the Rebecca bra  from Sewy this week. This time, after two muslins, it was time to break into my Amsterdam lace.

Big, fat, #FAIL. The bra was so big! One of several things happened:

  • I retraced the wrong size.
  • I stretched out the fabric while sewing.
  • Non stretch lace in the upper cup is different than stretch lace. The gods are laughing at me.

The version you see above is with some post construction alterations but generally, unsalvageable (too many enclosed seams and stretch stitches I fear). The bra was a good one to two inches too big in the band and just sadly baggy in the cup. After sewing (and trying on) I realized that the pattern seam allowances were about 1/8 inch bigger than the 1/4 inch I was sewing with. That definitely accounted for some of the problems.

The bust curve was also ridiculous. Rather than flatten that though, I’ve just taken some height tucks in the pattern pieces. I’ll try this one again. If the issue was just the seam allowance, then it’s easy to put the height back in to the pattern pieces.

So… yeah. I’m trying not to be salty that I cut into my ‘good fabric’.  Happily, I have *just* enough of the black and gold lace to eek out another set.  Here’s hoping the second version is better!

Posted in sewing

Sewing Underthings

One of the reasons I’m interested in lingerie is to start making my own underthings. I never really thought I would want to. Five for $25 at Victoria’s Secret suited me just fine. But, then I realized the things I were drawn to, the pretty lacy bits, were far more expensive. I started a Pinterest Board for the underpinings that were appealing to me.

I bought a $5 pair of thongs from Target (above) and got to work. Here are the two styles I’ve done. They are both thongs.

Lace along the side with a center front seam. I love this fabric! This embroidered stretch lace was a gift from Hilde when I was in Amsterdam.

Elastic along the side, no center front seam. This yellow and white stretch lace  was also a gift from Hilde. Isn’t it pretty? I saved enough to make a matching bra at some point.

And, I assembly lined about five pairs of these white lace ones. The lace from these came from a local manufacturer and was 50 cents a yard. So, I can make panties for about $1. Not the least expensive garment given my time, but prettier and cheaper than what I was finding in the same range.

I have black and bone colored lace that is the same. But, I need to dye some elastics for the waistband first.

My next stab will be making drawers from supplex for working out and biking.

Then, I’m going to attack  these knickers. I have a really hard time buying them off the shelf due to my, umm, assests.

Posted in sewing

Again With the Rebecca Bra

Argh. As I suspected in my last bra post, I did in fact trace and sew the wrong size bra. I made a 70F when I should have started with a 70G. Boooo! In fairness, different websites put me in different European size bras.

I was suspicious because I didn’t have the coverage I wanted. When I went to compare pattern pieces, I saw I wrote ’70F’ on the pattern. Doh!

I also added an uneeded seam allowance to the bridge. This made the bridge way wide. So, my hot pink muslin really was just a muslin. In addition, I didn’t have enough coverage in this version because it was an F cup.

For my second go- round I sewed the bra in Summerset’s Twilight Blue. I’m putting peer pressure on her for a deep chocolate brown. It’s the only color I can wear under light colored tops.

The color is beautiful. I was hoping to use a lesser loved color of the 5+ kits I own, but there isn’t one. I really quite like them all!

If you can belive it, I made this bra from trace  to finish on Friday night while watching My Big Fat Gypsy Wedding and Say  Yes to the Dress: Big Bliss. I started around 7 or 8 p.m. and even stopped to mix up a mojito and have my Friday night phone date with Trena. We talk most nights, but we have a standing Friday Night Phone Date. I looked at the clock when I was done and it was just after midnight. So, yes. It’s possible to sew a bra in four hours.

My techniques were better on this version. And I’m quite proud of my finishing.

But, it’s still not sewn totally correct. I have a few mistakes and several tweaks I still need to make.

The back is riding up. And, I think it’s because the band is still too big on me. This is not a new problem!

When I in college I wore a 36 band. I went down to a 34 two years ago and was sized into a 32 recently. All this despite weighing 15 lbs more than I did when I was wearing a 36!

My cup runneth over in the hot pink F cup. But, it’s not quite snug enough in the G. I accidentally stretched out the lace during pressing and fitting. But, I have made a slight adjustment to the upper bust pattern (taking out 1/8 – 1/4 inch). Hopefully that will work.

I’m also reducing the width of the bridge by 1/4 inch. Not quite sure how to address the band. But, I’m going to post on the lingerie sew along blog with photos on my persons. Hopefully I can get some feedback. Oh, I also need to reposition the bands. I kind of have narrow shoulders and forget that this is why I don’t like spaghetti straps!

There’s a bra making class in Baltimore this October. If I can’t get the hang of this in my next two, I’ll sign up for it. But, I’m really pretty happy with this!