Burda Magazine 2-2011-120: Inverted Pleat Skirt (Showing the Good China)

Whoa. This skirt is short. Like OBGYN visit short. Like, I’m only wearing you when it’s deathly hot and with full bloomers underneath short.

Oddly enough, when deciding between blue denim or this khaki twill, I chose khaki so they would be work appropriate. Heh. Obviously, theses aren’t getting anywhere near my office!

The front kick pleat visual interest. I tend to drive myself crazy wanting the pleat to stay closed the whole time. But, I don’t think it’s really meant to do that. Or, it’s *slightly* off grain.

It was a really easy skirt.  Because time was of the essence, I left out the pockets. There is no waistband, just a facing. So, I used twill tape in the seam allowance of the waistband to stabilize this stretchy fabric.

I finished the facing with premade bias tape.

For the hem, just serging and a twin needle stitch. I did hem it by one inch. I could have also tried a facing, but seriously. Would 3/4 of an inch really have made this that much longer?

Skirt construction is less than two hours, skirt length, less than two feet.  (ETA: The blouse is from the Janaury 2008 Burda. I wrote a review of it for my China trip.)

And, baby. It’s shooooort. That trench coat is just below my knees. I am kind of a modest person when it comes to dress. I don’t like it too tight, low or short.  If I wasn’t pressed, I probably would have immediately recut and sewn this skirt.

I haven’t shown this much thigh in public since I was at the beach in August 2010. My younger friend Liz (who I am usually telling to wear longer skirts) fell out laughing when I put it on. No fear! I plan to wear compression shorts under it this weekend.

I now realize the Burda model is kind of leaning forward, making the skirt appear a bit longer. Oh, Burda!! Girl, you got me good!

Of course, I could have checked the length and measured. But, I was in a hurry. Truth be told, these are not much shorter than my shorts of two years ago. But, shorts can’t show your hoo-ha.

Needless to say, I’m not picking anything off the floor in these. Dang.

I have a second version already cut out in denim, with an additional two inches in length! But, looking at these photos, I think three to five might have been the right move🙂

If you’d like to try it yourself and don’t have this issue, you can find it at BurdaStyle.

Navy Blue Bubble Skirt: BWOF 8-2007-119

I think I’ve generally settled on a few skirts to fill out my wardrobe for the cycling trip and my summer. Sunday I realized I wanted to wear some ‘regular’ clothes on my trip I immediately thought of a bubble skirt. They are cute when short, full enough to hide a multitude of sins and in a knit can wash and dry easily with no wrinkling. Best of all, I made this in about an hour.

The pattern I selected is Burda Magazine’s 8-2007-119. Don’t give up those Burda magazines! I remembe when I thought bubble skirts were juvenille. Well, maybe they still are, ha!

This skirt worked up SUPER fast. Just one pattern piece for both front and back which you cut on the fold. The same pattern piece includes the lining . The waistband is a simple rectangle you are given the dimensions for. I traced this out on Sunday and sewed it in little over an hour on Monday night (when I should have been packing for Tampa).

The material was gifted from a friend’s mom when she cleaned out her small sewing stash. I previously made this La Mia Boutique skirt from the same poly knit. If I could *find* that skirt I would have take it on the trip with me. But, I think I’ll be making it up in another fabric when I get back in town next week from Florida.

The only pattern changes I made were converting the waistline gathers to pleats and taking two inches of length out at the hip. Heh. These look a bit like bloomers, don’t they?

Because I made neither my typical full seat or swayback adjustments, the skirt does ride up in the back. I haven’t had that on me in ages!

The inside lining is just a brown poly knit I have boat loads of.

I’ll wear this next month with padded shorts underneath

The skirt is also great for layering. Oh, I also have a new pair of Tevas for the trip. I usuall wear water sport style Tevas but figured I wanted my toes protected. My roommate is also loaning me a second pair because we’ve been warned they might not dry overnight if it’s damp.

I’ve already got a second version of this skirt in black cut out!

Pattern Review: Russian La Mia Boutique Skirt 12-2009 #122

Too Hot to Model

I didn’t sew a stitch last weekend and didn’t feel like it until mid day Sunday this weekend. Then, the sewing bug hit me *hard*. I finished up a blouse, repaired a dress, shortened a skirt, redid the waistband on my linen pants and finished up this UFO from January. Why so long? Well, I didn’t have navy or black thread in the serger. What can I say? My serger is the biggest determining factor in what I’m sewing next.

It’s a navy (darker than pictured) poly double knit skirt and without central air in my house, it’s just too hot to model🙂 The pattern is from the 12/09 edition of ‘Patterns’. This is a Russian language magazine that carries the Italian La Mia Boutique. It was a gift from my Ukrainian colleague earlier this year. I’ve since found a subscription online that I renew quarterly.

Below, is the editorial shot and a bit of the line drawing. Again, a big shoutout to Lyl on the PR Boards for translating for me.

I love, love, love this skirt. It’s totally unique from what I usually see. In case I haven’t said so here, skirts generally bore me. I like skirts with really interesting details so I don’t sew them too often. There are about three I would like to eventually make.

I shortened the skirt by about six inches since it fell way below the knee and lenghthened the side gathers so they draped more. I like that it’s not formfitting (knits and m thighs are not a good look). I was also able to omit the elastic in the waistband. The knit was sturdy enough to stay up without it.

I’ll definitely make this up again when it’s cooled down in a wool. Ooooh, boots! I’m going to just love this skirt with boots.

This gives me hope that my next four Russian La Mia Boutiques are as good as this one was. Do you like how my dressform is posing? Like I walked in on her while she was getting dressed, lol.

Later this week (or better known as when I have a coordinating piece and wear it to work) I’ll show you my January 2008 #108 blouse. It came out all kinds of cute (tight in the biceps, but cute)! Technically, I think I’m done with my East Coast to Far East Capsule. I have three tops and three bottoms and one dress (dress and one skirt are pre-existing). If I can find some khaki linen this week, I might make another pants or a skirt. But, the pressure is off! Two more weeks to go!

Pattern Review: Bias Skirt, BWOF 4-2002-127

I’m borrowing a camera. I don’t want to harp, but I’m sorry about the low quality of the photos. I’ve taken to photographing facing my screen door for sunlight. But, it’s pretty overcast. We have 98 percent humidity and thunderstorms. Blech. I thought between humidity and the low 90s it was a good day to test out part of my China capsule (I bet you’re thinking September can’t come soon enough so I can stop talking about China, lol). At any rate, I’m thinking of raiding the coverstitch fund for a used Nikon D40 — a DSLR camera I’ve wanted for the last three years.

There is so very little to say about this bias skirt. It’s a very basic design with just one pattern piece. **Will have to update this. I’m showing the wrong pattern line drawing.** I think bias skirts can be a neat first project. There’s minimal fitting and the bias lends itself to design interest. I like this tangerine linen. It washed up incredibly soft and falls beautifully. Plus, it adds a great punch of color. I’ve really liked orange lately, but don’t like it close to my face because it sometimes, er, well — matches my hair color, LOL.

For skirts like this, I prefer the speed and ease of a narrow waistand. I use Dritzs’ Perfect Waist Maker. I bought about 10 yards of it in Portland last summer. I should have bought all of it. It’s a fusible interfacing with perforations at the fold line. I could have done a very slight swayback adjustment. But, I didn’t bother.


I let the dress hang for a few days so the bias portions would grow. There was easily almost a two inch difference in some part of the hem length. I shortened the pattern by three inches. at the hip.  I made a narrow hem on my machine.

I can’t think of anything else to say about this skirt. Except, the first time I made a bias skirt, I had to have a friend hem it for me. I just couldn’t handle it five years ago.

The top is my BWOF 1-2008-122 poet blouse

Mid Weekend Skirt Making

It’s the close of Day Two in NYC. Trena’s just heading back to DC and I’m still in Brooklyn until Monday morning.

The Garment District was OURS on Friday. We hit Parons, Metro Textile, Pacific Trim, Greenberg & Hammer and Spandex House to name a few. Seriously, Trena and I shopped from morning to night. But, I stayed on budget! 

The NYC Garment District is mecca for the sewist. One of the great silk jerseys we picked up was turned into a skirt for my favorite Aunt Judy who put Trena and I up for the weekend.

We drafted a pattern from the Simplicity website and used my Granny’s ‘Stitch-O-Matic’ to pull it together. Granny was a seamstress back in Carriacou and made most of her 10 kids clothing growing up. But, she didn’t sew much after coming to the States in the mid 70s.  She handed me a can of oil and it ran just as smooth as the day it was made.

Luckily, Aunt Judy had a few different tops to go with it. Our skirt was a slight aline with a foldover waistband. We reinforced the waistband with elastic in the seam line.  The fabric is an absolute joy to sew with. Silky and soft with an amazing sheen.

Clearly, we are kind of proud of ourselves🙂

Tomorrow is the wedding and I’m back home on Monday with fabric photos and new project ideas.

Just Skirting Around

“Every now and then your wardrobe needs an injection of something, new, trendy and fun.  That was the thought when we spied the pencil skirts shown in the large graphic prints and florals in the June 2009 issue of Lucky Magazine.  These skirts provide a great way to update a classic…so with that photo spread and a little conversation…we were ready to create our own versions.  Following are our individual interpretations of an updated yet classic pencil skirt.”

Inspiration:  A feature in Lucky Magazine highlighting the pencil skirt done in large scale prints/graphic prints.

The ChallengeCreate a pencil skirt that works on our own body and use a bold print.

Participants are Carolyn, Diary of a Sewing Fanatic;  Me, LindsayT, Lindsay T Sews (Again); and Marji Fiber Arts Afloat. (Marji proposed the challenge after reading Carolyn’s post of May 9 and asked a few fellow sewists she emails and talks to regularly if they wanted to participate.)

For me, the challenge is in just making a skirt. I never really made them and seemed to skip to far more complicated garments years ago. So I am generally uncomfortable with my skirt fitting and construction issues (discussed below) for skirts.

The skirt:


Pattern used: ‘vintage’ BWOF from June 2002, #104 (6-2002-104)

Fabric / Fabric source:
White waffle weave pique from the Carol Collection with graphic red and black flowers. It’s bold and graphic, but not necessarily a LARGE scale print.

Construction details:

I have loved this skirt since it first ran seven years ago. I’ve said before that I don’t make a lot of skirts. Mainly because I don’t have tops to go with them and the vicious cycle of no separates continues. I also don’t make a lot of skirts ‘cuz I think a lot of what I see is b-o-r-i-n-g. So, when I make a skirt, I do it for the details.

On this one, it was the side button placket. First, it provides visual interest and second, it prevents me from having to work with a slit which I still have not mastered.  It also appears that I need to learn the ‘my skirt hikes up in the back’ adjustment due to my swayback and my Jamaican caboose. A syndrome I see all over the streets of Baltimore.

I will be looking for some different buttons though. These blend in a bit too much. If I were making this same skirt again, I would have worked the buttonholes in a different  color than  white.

Because the skirt is white, I chose to underline with white cotton batiste and line it with a tan Bemberg Rayon — rendering it Princess Diana proof. And, I’ve finally got a handle on the blind hem function of my Kenmore!

Here’s the back (All my RTW tops look like this H&M one with pooling at my waist). My version has a CB seam so I could take a horizontal tuck for my swayback.

Skirts also sit higher on my front than on my back (another swayback issue) — which causes some not pretty pulling across the front.

** In the photo above, there are two less buttons. I took photos Monday morning,  wore the skirt to work and decided to add two more buttons after I got home. I wore the skirt to work on Monday and have compliments from the first three women I saw. A success I say! But, I really need to master some basic skills for skirts. I never like making them because of lining and fit. I want to be like my girl Trena with her 50+.

** Pay no attention to the junkyard grass in the background. I was going to mow this weekend, but cut my hand slicing that  baguette I just *had* to have on Sunday and I was too cheap to submit to the THIRTY DOLLAR extortion the kid across the street  wanted to mow my 20 sq ft of grass. That, and I hate yardwork.

I’ve moved (and a new skirt)

I kind of gave up on Blogger in 2008. Too often, it made photos ginormous during import, gave me coding error message when I hit ‘publish’ and would delete photos if I tried to move them by copy and paste vs. dragging and dropping. So, I found out I could import my blog in its entirety to WordPress and I’ve done it.

Plus, I can get that cool ‘possibly related posts’ thing going.

Comments from Halsoscan and JS-Kit didn’t come with me, but this JS-Kit conversion was a colossal PITA anyway and I still have access to them on the Haloscan site. If you want a little avatar by your comments, just register at Gravatar.com. It works with WordPress and with folks on Haloscan.

I was told recently by a good friend that I dress like I work at an advertising agency. I took it as a total compliment and this skirt will not do anything to take away from that impression!

I LOVE this skirt. It’s been a while since I have been head over heels for a project design. Truly. Normally I love something because of the fit and fabric. Not often is it the design that makes me giddy. But, this skirt is the coolest thing since sliced bread.

The fit took a lot of tweaking, Knip Mode seems to have more ease that BWOF. And I put just about every piece on backwards, upside down or before behind during construction, so there was a lot of stretching at the seams since much of this is bias cut. So, they are not as straight as they could be.

KP Line Drawing

KM Editorial

I first saw this skirt on Sigrid’s blog and fell in love. Thanks to her, I have about a year’s worth of KMs (most of which are with Trena at the moment).

Unbuttoned, you can see that this is a basic wrap skirt. The wrap over piece is cut on the bias with loads of drape and curve to create the pleats when buttoned. The skirt design is unlined, but I chose to fully line it.

I wanted that peak of color you can see below, a firmer drape and stabilisation behind the buttonholes (I did samples. The buttonholes were all wonky without the lining).

I also conquered my fear of the blind hem attachment last night! I could not see myself doing all this hand hemming. What a little miracle that stitch pattern and foot are. The skirt is shortened by about 3 – 5 inches.

I know this is similar to the ‘Stitch’ skirt, but on the KM version you don’t see the buttons, the pleats are symmetrical and there is waistband. I think all that makes it more professional.



I’d like to work on a simple black knit top to wear with it. But, the fabric I want has gone missing in the house. I’ve done a hard search four times today and am giving up.

And HA! Here’s how far I’ve gotten in a week on my scarf.  Remember, a week ago I ripped it out and started over. I’m back to where I was! Don’t be surprised if this becomes a cowl. A scarf is a lifetime of knitting!