Posted in sewing

Tailoring a jacket

The jacket project continues! I’m still wrapping my mind around not rushing through it. Steps I’ve taken:


Interfaced the front and made a chest shield / shoulder reinforcement from interfacing

dscf7410Stabilised and eased the shoulder seam with twill tape


Some kinda miracle because the front and back lines match up and I wasn’t trying i.e. didn’t think about it until I was pressing it.


Made a back shield. Or is it back stay? Meh.


Interfaced and pressed the pockets. They don’t look overpressed in real life.


Interfaced the sleeve cap


And spent a good hour on the phone with Marji addressing the sleeves and hemming. I’m also sorry to say that I haven’t even cut out the lining. I think we’ll be seeing March before I’m done with this project.


Uhhhh. If you have these buttons from FabricMart and can spare a few, can you leave me a comment or shoot me an e-mail? I have enough to single breast the jacket, but I think I want a double row and don’t have enough of the large ones. I also have just two of the medium size for the jacket pocket and wouldn’t mind a spare in case I lose a button. The smallest ones will go on the pants. The pants that are cut and laying abondened on the cutting table.

Posted in Uncategorized

Minor Elements of Tailoring

Thanks to AJ, I now have found out that in old tailoring shops, it’s common for an apprentice to get the hang of the vest before moving on to a jacket. That’s great since there are two I want to make this summer (with matching bottoms too).

My first seersucker garment was this BWOF 5-2007-104 (reviewed here) jacket last summer. While I love the jacket, it’s floppy and pretty casual. I tried on some J. Crew seersucker last season and found that they were very structured and loverrly. In an effort to step up my efforts on the BWOF 2-2007-116 vest, I’m incorporating some tailoring elements.

Silk organza interlining on the left, vest front seersucker hand basted to interlining

Rather than interfacing the entire garment, I’m going to underline it with silk organza. That’s because I don’t want to lose any of the seersuckerness of the fabric with fusing. The front organza is cut on the bias so that it will hug the body (SB, PowerSewing). I was going to do a cotton batiste, but the organza gave a crisper feel.

The lining is this pink Ambiance I got from G Street last fall.
I’m using fusible black sheer knit interfacing for the collar and facing on the underlining instead of the fashion fabric. I’m not attaching it to the seersucker because I don’t want to loose the seersuckerness of it all.

So everything is now cut out, I’m half way through the basting of interlining. This weekend should be some serious construction.

The only things I am not sure if I should do:

Do I still need to stabilize the underarm curve since I have underlining? If so, do I apply it to the fashion fabric or to the silk organza?

Also, I’d like to use twill to stabilize the roll of the collar. But, I need to get a little more familiar with the construction of this before I commit 🙂