Posted in sewing

Knip Mode vest done

So, back in August I told you all about the Knip Mode vest I started. Well, apparently, garments don’t get finished if you don’t actually *sew* them.

I finished the vest up on Sunday, which was my first time on a sewing machine in about three weeks. I don’t like this shirt with it. So, a coordinating blouse needs to get made. The fabric is great because there is yellow, blue, pink and grey in it. It’s a rayon from a local fabric shop.

While I muslined the pattern and made adjustments to the 38, I still think it’s not as fitted as it could be. But, it’s also my first completed Knip Mode and I’m pretty happy. My last vest was baggy too until it got a good washing.

I still have gobs of this fabric left. I broke up the plaid with a solid grey and also steamed out a lot of the fullness in the collar.

The vest is fully lined with a poly satin left over from another project. I love lining. I’m not sure I’ll make something unlined ever again.

I notice that whenever I say what I’m sewing next it rarely materializes. So, for now, let’s say that I’ve pulled all my ‘winter pants’ fabric lengths (about four) and have set them aside. I’ve also pulled about six other fabrics that coordinate for a undetermined future project. And, I still need about five blouses. It’s really never ending isn’t it?

Posted in sewing

Ruffled Vest, done

Well, I finished the BWOF 2-2008-116 waistcoat a little early! Since I regularly work until 8:00 p.m., I’m trying to to manage my schedule better and go in a little later in the morning. So, this morning, with an hour to spare, I went ahead and put in the buttonholes for the waistcoat. I, um, also could have ironed it, but, I was running late for work and *really* wanted to wear it!
I’m so glad I decided to line the vest so it looks finished on the inside too! Although, without a shirt, you can kind of see the lining from the side (in the shoulder area) I love how the corners came out with the peplum.

I’m quite taken with the ruffles. I have to say though, this is an incredibly unique looking garment. I feel a little like I could fly away in it. I like it in the black, but I think the pattern details would be far more visible in a more obvious stripe.

I think that things also got a little stretched out in my lining wrestling session. Also, wonky pockets. I definitely didn’t place them correctly. But, in the black, you hardly notice. Unfortunately, it’s not quite warm enough to wear sans blouse yet. But, I quite like it with the turtleneck too!
I do want to make a matching pair of pants this summer. Because these wrinkly things could not fit me worse. Big in the waist, tight in the thighs. Yuck. Whiskers in the crotch area are never a good thing.

This was a GREAT introduction to some tailoring techniques. It definitely has the heft and structure I was looking for.

I’m going to wear it out this weekend (hopefully without the shirt). I’ll take photos of it then too.

Posted in Uncategorized

Minor Elements of Tailoring

Thanks to AJ, I now have found out that in old tailoring shops, it’s common for an apprentice to get the hang of the vest before moving on to a jacket. That’s great since there are two I want to make this summer (with matching bottoms too).

My first seersucker garment was this BWOF 5-2007-104 (reviewed here) jacket last summer. While I love the jacket, it’s floppy and pretty casual. I tried on some J. Crew seersucker last season and found that they were very structured and loverrly. In an effort to step up my efforts on the BWOF 2-2007-116 vest, I’m incorporating some tailoring elements.

Silk organza interlining on the left, vest front seersucker hand basted to interlining

Rather than interfacing the entire garment, I’m going to underline it with silk organza. That’s because I don’t want to lose any of the seersuckerness of the fabric with fusing. The front organza is cut on the bias so that it will hug the body (SB, PowerSewing). I was going to do a cotton batiste, but the organza gave a crisper feel.

The lining is this pink Ambiance I got from G Street last fall.
I’m using fusible black sheer knit interfacing for the collar and facing on the underlining instead of the fashion fabric. I’m not attaching it to the seersucker because I don’t want to loose the seersuckerness of it all.

So everything is now cut out, I’m half way through the basting of interlining. This weekend should be some serious construction.

The only things I am not sure if I should do:

Do I still need to stabilize the underarm curve since I have underlining? If so, do I apply it to the fashion fabric or to the silk organza?

Also, I’d like to use twill to stabilize the roll of the collar. But, I need to get a little more familiar with the construction of this before I commit 🙂