Vogue 8825: Royal Blue and Gold Silk Jersey

After my Purple Friday dress, it feels great to return to my bold and graphic print roots!

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But, let me tell you. This was the slowest silk sewing, evah. Let me splain you.

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I first saw this silk jersey material in store at Mood Fabrics back in August. I hemmed and hawed and finally placed a phone order in October (now sold out).  I loved the blue and gold because they are my sorority colors and I knew I could get some good wear out of it during graduate chapter and regional meetings. Since the silk was just 45″ wide, I bought five yards at $25 a yard. I seriously debated the investment (hence the two month wait to purchase). But, both Trena and Liz pointed out a similar RTW dress would easily be twice as much.

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This is my second time sewing with silk jersey. This Prarie NY silk jersey presented some new challenges for me. The fabric was ‘tough’ in that even when pinning, I had trouble penetrating the material. I knew silk was strong (silk thread for buttonholes, silk organza for stablising, etc.). But, my serger  just wanted to eat this material. I tried both stretch and ball point needles and my overlocker was having none of it. My sewing machine was punching holes through the jersey I wanted to cry. I think I may have a little.

I posted on Facebook and had some superhelpful responses. I went out and bought microtex and titanium needles upon the suggestions of the Interwebs. Both sewed through the silk like a knife through butter. It’s my first time experiencing this challange. But, again, only my second time with silk jersey.

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I did a little handtacking of the collar to keep it in place. In a similar dress to this from Burda, there is interfacing throughout the facing and collar. I think this is a better way to stabilise the front.Photobucket

I took two inches off the bottom and decided not to ‘finish’ the hem. I made my usual alterations of a slight FBA and a big swayback adjustment. I sewed a 12 and the fit seems to be good. I am very self conscious about my lower thighs (saddlebags), so a slip is needed for me when I wear this dress.  Photobucket

The puzzle print is pretty bold. And, for a hot second I thought about trying to match the motif. But, decided not to bother.

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There is some mirroring on the upper back. Trust me, I can live with it.

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The skirt could probably be cut on the fold, but for my swayback adjustment purposes, I like a center back seam.

If you see my cuffs, they are folded under toward the inside. On PatternReview.com I read some people took length out of the sleeves.

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I thought the length of the sleeve was fine, but the cuff wide for my taste. So, I’m folding it back.

Have I mentioned my mom *hates* sashes on me? She calls them ‘that fabric in front of you hanging from your waist’. HAHAHA! She cracks me up.

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Overall, I’m thrilled. This dress is *so* me.  It’s body conscious without being tarty, the bold print, the shape of the skirt, the full sleeves. The silk. Man, the silk. I want to have a work week of silk jersey dresses. It’s so luxe.  I love that I’m wearing a dress that would start at retail around $300.  Absolutely worth the investment.

The material for this dress was purchased in part using an allowance from Mood Fabrics for the Mood Sewing Network.

56 comments

  1. This is beautiful! I’ve added this pattern to my ‘to make’ list! And, I just got a box of knits in the mail (though not silk…). Love it.

  2. OMG – that dress just looks fantastic – so you and looks GREAT. And the needle recommendations are something I just wrote down on a sticky, too.

  3. You look amazing in these pictures! And that dress makes your bod look HAWT!!! Girl, I am jealous. You make me wanna get out on the exercise floor and do some crunches!

  4. Your dress looks great…isn’t silk jersey just the most delightful fabric ever. I have that pattern prepped and ready to sew. You have just given me the final encouragement needed.

  5. Truly gorgeous dress, Cidell! The colors, the fit, everything about it looks fantastic on you.

  6. So gorgeous! I loved this pattern as soon as I saw it and bought when it first went on sale. Now I know what I’m making as soon as theater sewing is done!

  7. Oh that dress is GAWJUS on you! Really flattering cut and shape (yes, even the fabric that hangs down in front! LOL!). I am making notes for the Titanium and microtex needles as well.

  8. Beautiful! It fits so perfectly, and I couldn’t think of a better match of fabric and pattern. Thank you for sharing your experience with the silk jersey – I will definitely get a few of those needles before I try sewing on it.

  9. Bee-U-tee-full! Love the colors and the pattern.
    I just bought some 4ply silk to make mother of bride dress, spending more per yard than I ever have. But the feel of silk! You’re right on that point! Thanks for mentioning the needle issue. I’ll have to test out my usual sharp points to see if I have a similar problem.

  10. What a great looking dress. Just pinned the pattern so I won’t forget it. Love the print, love the dress. Looks great on you.

  11. Wow, what a beautiful dress. I think it looks just wonderful on you, and I love the neckline and the sash! Mmm, now I want to try some silk jersey…

  12. You look amazing, Cidell! I bet that silk feels amazing next to your skin, too!

  13. I’ve read your blog for years, and today I must comment! That dress is amazing on you! Thanks for the good tips about needles. I’ve let my sewing slide, but now I am re-energized.

  14. The bold print suits you so well! I like sashes, although I typically tie them to 1 side, rather than straight down. Hope your basement is all dried out now.

  15. LOVE! This dress is in my queue, albeit in a more subdued poly knit (that I may loathe wearing – we’ll see), and it’s great to see such a beautiful rendition of the design.

  16. Stunning dress, it looks so good on you. I’ve added that pattern to my wish list – gorgeous!

  17. Ooh la la! The shape is wonderful on you! I like the big, bold print — agree that trying to pattern match at the seams would have brought on fits of insanity. You could always wrap the sash to tie at the back: my sway-backed mother and I often do that. A bow or knot fits neatly into the “sway,” and accentuates our generous bottoms. (Might as well flaunt what you cannot hide, say we.) ((“Generous bottom” is a technical term, from an article in a 1980s Psychology Today magazine that illustrated nine basic bottom types. I kid you not.))

  18. Love it! Great colors on you and the shape at midriff is so flattering to your waist, OMG!

    And I guess the blog makeover is because of sports team too. Purple is my favorite color, so I am not complaining AT ALL!!!

    You look so good in it, I want one too! In fact, I actually have this pattern (I think) but I am wondering if it isn’t too much dress for my frame, especially that shape of sleeves. Very 70s flair.

  19. Gorgeous!!! That dress looks just beautiful and you are totally rockin’ it. Thanks for sharing those tips on working with silk jersey… your description makes me think I need to invest and make a beautiful dress for me! 🙂

  20. This is so lovely on you. The print is great and the style is really flattering. I just bought this same pattern a few weeks ago but now we’re coming in to summer it’s too warm a style for me to wear. It will have to wait until next winter.

  21. This is luxe! I love that pattern- it is amazing! I must admit to never having heard of silk jersey before (I’m still kinda new to this whole sewing shebang) so I’m going to see if I can track some down. This looks so lovely!

  22. I was just about to leave you a comment a couple of days ago asking where this dress went! I love it, it was worth the wait. You look gorgeous. Good colors and style for you. Titanium needles? Who knew! I learn something every time I read your blog.

  23. The dress is beautiful on you. The non pattern matching back is not only sensible avoidance of things-that-can-drive-you-crazy, but breaks up the big print nicely, like the v neck and pleats do at the front. (I am trying to say it looks better that way IMO 😉 )

  24. Beautiful dress and even more important, it looks beautiful on you. Great job.

  25. It looks amazing on you! Fabulous print, great fit, and I love that fabric hanging from your waist!

  26. I just adore your new dress. You’ve achieved the perfect fit and the style and colours suit you so well.

  27. This is a very flattering dress on you; love the style and your fabric. I have never sewn silk jersey before and should I ever attempt it I will have to try the microtex needles.

  28. Stunning dress, I bet in that silk jersey it feels as gorgeous to wear as it looks. I really liked this pattern when it came out, but didn’t get around to buying it – now I think I must!

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