Posted in sewing

A Modified Cashmerette Montrose Top

Before we begin, my apologies for the poor quality of the photos. I loaned my SLR to a friend traveling with her family and my Pentax point and shoot with remote control stopped working a few months ago. I’m using a borrowed point and shoot camera on a timer and it focused on everything behind me in all 200 photos I took. These were the least offensive of them.

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A few months ago a busty student asked me about making the Grainline Scout Tee — a woven tee shirt. I told her if she hated darts and her breasts then go right ahead. A week later Chasmerette released the Montrose Top — a woven tee shirt with darts that can accommodate up to an H cup. Clearly, I spoke this into existence.  And, I’m so glad I did!

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I made up my version in a lovely woven vintage Japanese print gifted to me over ten years ago from Sue V. in Los Angeles. Her Japanese – American neighbor was having a yard sale and she posted a few yards for me. This fabric has been waiting for just the right project and this was it. The simple garment shape really allows the print to shine. After posting on Instagram I learned the prints aren’t balls of yarn, but Japanese temari balls.

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For my version, I sewed a 14G/H, modified the sleeve to a bell shape and added a 2″ exposed facing at the neckline. Since I made this two months ago, I’ve sewn with a few more Cashmerette patterns and find my sizing with a 43″ full bust is best in a 14E/F.

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2″ exposed facing

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This is also the pattern where I learned I need to make a full seat and additional swayback adjustment in Cashmerette patterns. A swayback alone would take care of the folds at my waistline. But, it wouldn’t help the hem from getting caught on my protruding seat. That requires more length and some width at the back hip.

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I finished my insides with French seams. When combined with this facing treatment the inside is almost as beautiful as the outside.

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While this pattern is very basic, it throws open the door of woven shirt possibilities. It’s a good base for adding design touches where a lot of the hard work is done for you in the bodice department. I can’t wait to play around with it some more.

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Posted in sewing

Summer Dress Ready: Cashmerette Webster Top / Dress

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If you don’t recognize my glasses that’s because they are my progressive lens. I’ve had them for two years and finally broke down and started wearing more often because I enjoy being able to actually see 😭

It feels like a minute since I made a fun summer dress. I spent last year making jeans, tee shirts and outerwear. But, this year I needed something light for our summer vacation to California. I made the Webster Top first and really honestly fell in love with it. I immediately cut out the dress version in a butterfly rayon from Cotton + Steel. I love prints. I love butterflies. Well, I probably don’t like real life butterflies because they are bugs. But, I love them rendered in fabric (when they aren’t too lifelike).

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As stated in my Webster Top review, I didn’t pay for the pattern. I picked to up back in February when I was visiting Cashmertte enterprises. All opinions are my own. And, if my house were to catch on fire I would replace this pattern in a heartbeat.

I’m really happy to have a flowy summer dress where my bra straps don’t show! I love love love the neckline. The V is deep but doesn’t show cleavage. It’s beautifully flattering.

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I did make some alterations for fit for my body. But, since they are the same as I made for the Webster Top, I’m putting alterations at the end of this post. The only thing different is I shortened my skirt by 1.5″ so it would hit just above the knee.

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For sure this my new go to summer dress pattern. It really might be an unsung hero in the Cashmerette lineup.


Alertations

There is some video of it all (for the time being) on my Instagram page. If you go to my profile, under my name there’s a bubble that says “Webster Fit” or use the l

  1. The front shoulder seam were rolling forward on me. So, I lengthened the front between the shoulder and bust by 1″ and shortened the back the same amount.
  2. 1/2″ swayback adjustment. These patterns have a sway back. I just need more
  3. Protruding seat adjustment. This added some length over my bum at center back and some width at the back side seam only.
  4. 1/4″ sloping shoulder adjustment (for a total of 1/2″)
  5. This pattern is a very loose casual fit. So, I used the 14 E/F which matches my full bust measurement of 43 and graded to a 12 in the waist / hip area.
  6. The skirts was a little long on me so I shortened the hem band by 1.5″. I like a skirt that hits right above my knee.

I like that this pattern has an all-in-one-facing. That means no flipping out.

Posted in sewing

Jalie 3889, The Mélanie Kimono Robe

Next to being on the Cashmerette Ipswich pattern cover, testing the Summer 2018 Jalie patterns was the biggest sewing secret I’ve had for MONTHS. I’m so happy I can share some of my projects with you. I don’t test often because there are so many things I want to sew for me. Testing well takes time and resources and I’m not generally in the habit of giving either away. But, I’ll test for friends when I can work it out because I love them and want them to succeed. Testing also helped me realize I needed to get better organized this year with my sewing. Between work, teaching and testing it was imperative I not suffer from pattern indecision.

Jalie Kimono Stars -65 Am I ever glad I didn’t miss out on the kimono trend! I’d sort of skimmed past a lot of these toppers the last year or so because they were TOO kimono or a a bit too “clothing as art” retired lady. But, when I had the chance to make up the new Mélanie Kimono from Jalie Patterns I could really see its potential as a beginner sewing class pattern to teach. And, I ended up with an easy to assemble, straight forward kimono pattern that I ADORE. I’ve been wearing this topper all over town the last two months.

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Also, language lesson: How did I not know ‘peignoir’ meant ‘robe’ in French? HOW? Because I want to teach this as a beginner class — but have a few extra touches, this took a *bit* more time than sewing as drafted.

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First, I used French seams throughout. While the seam allowance is 3/8″ I went ahead and used 1/2″ seams for this. The fit is generous enough that the 1/4″ (total) difference doesn’t show.

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And, I made a clean finish for my hems with a double turn under. The pattern has single folds for the hems.

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This pattern is great. No interfacing needed for the pockets, neckband and waist tie which speeds up production. I was really nervous about looking like a walking piece of wearable art. But, in fact I feel really trendy but comfortable in this. This topper likely looks best with a very slim silhouette underneath. It can easily double as a robe if kimonos as daywear aren’t your thing. I like it so much and it comes together so easily I’m thinking of making one as a bridal shower gift for a friend!
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The blue star fabric is a five-years-old Marc by Marc Jacobs yardage last used in my Webster Top. I have a scant few yards destined for a Springfield top.

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I really like this kimono. I feel like it can work for business and pleasure. Or, lounging or some basic all-day swanning about.

Posted in sewing

Destash & Swap Registration Open

Registration is live for Destash Baltimore. This is a great time to meet regional sewists, destash some unloved fabric, books, yarn and patterns. AND, get to give someone else’s stash a new home.

You don’t have to be from Baltimore. But, please invite all your friends :-D. I’ve wanted to put together an event like this for years. Partly to meet more people in the area and mostly to destash some of my items that I didn’t want to go to waste.

See you there!

DestashBaltimore.Eventbrite.com

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