Pattern Review: Burda Magazine 10-2009-119

16 Jan

Wow. I thought I would get this dress finished over the New Year’s break. Not so much ;)

Somedays, I think I have got to leave pleats alone. Remember this shirt? Or my last dress? Luckily, Burda’s 10-2009-119 was not an epic fail. I actually quite like it. But, these pleats and I have got to go to therapy to work on our relationship.

I was immediately drawn to this dress because it’s in just about my favorite neutral, gray. And, it had that awsome flared skirt that would skim over my legs. I like how the tucks in front  created interest. What I forgot, is that I am god-awful at sewing pleats! Not one single tuck is the same size as the next tuck. I find myself triple checking every single tuck because the whole concept is a little confusing to me. But, I love how they look!

First, let’s just stop pretending you don’t see it and address my little ‘style’ change to the skirt portion. I somehow managed to not mark the tucks (or extend them) to the hem. And, rather than go back and remark the skirt once I realized, I decided a 60s style full skirt would do me just fine. But, I am not totally lazy– the dress is fully lined!

And, while Nigel has heated seats, I cannot go sleeveless in winter. Today, it was a balmy 40 degrees (after two weeks of temps in the mid 20s, it almost felt like spring). This dress can easily be worn with a turtleneck underneath.

The fabric is a heather gray stretch wool from A 2009 purchase! I’m still on my 2010 fabric fast. It’s very soft and warm and totally a steal at less than $5 a yard. But, it is not pant weight IMHO as they suggested.

I don’t know what I think about the sizing though. I sewed a 40 in this (I normally sew a 38 — but I’m experimenting). It is a very snug fit in the bust. So snug, that without the turtleneck you can see my bra straps in back (again — fully lined). Or, I have back fat now. Either way — not a good look. That could easily be my fault since I can’t sew tucks. But, I have found that Burda’s fitted / tucked dresses don’t work well for me sizewise. Remember this one?

I’m still on my soup / cooking kick.

Tortilla soup is soup #3. Yummy. I went to the Latino store and even bought real crema, fresh tortillas and cotija cheese. I know. I need to work on my food photography skills ;)

Soup #4, Garlic Potato soup. Which I think is your basic Baked Potato or Potato Leek Soup. So not really ‘healthy’ between the sour cream, cheddar, heavy cream and starchy potatoes. but, it was delicious.

Soup #5 was today’s lunch. Vietnamese-Style Beef Noodle Soup. There is a Thai-Fillipino store less than a mile from my house with everything I needed. Su-wheet. Never thought I would find my self putting cinnamon in chicken broth!

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42 Responses to “Pattern Review: Burda Magazine 10-2009-119”

  1. Jacqui January 16, 2010 at 17:04 #

    I’m hungry! Especially for the beef nood soup.

  2. Gorgeous Things January 16, 2010 at 17:27 #

    I love that dress on you. And that Vietnamese beef noodle soup looks so good!! DH is in DC this weekend tending to his dad, so the kids and I are making tacos tonight. Maybe tomorrow night I’ll try that. :)

  3. Gorgeous Things January 16, 2010 at 17:28 #

    Oh, and a friend gave me a tip about photographing food: turn off the flash and photograph it in natural light, if possible, at a slight angle. HTH!

  4. Mel January 16, 2010 at 17:29 #

    The dress is adorable! I love pin tucks! They are a pain to meaure out and get even, but sooooo worth it.

    Thank you for adding me to the blog.

  5. Shannon January 16, 2010 at 18:10 #

    I think it was John Lennon that said, “Give pleats a chance.” hee

    Anywho, I think you look fab in your new dress, despite the pleating issue!

  6. Carolyn January 16, 2010 at 18:54 #

    I’m loving the dress on you! Regardless of what you say I think you did a wonderful job on the pleats!

  7. fabricateandmira January 16, 2010 at 18:56 #

    Your pleats look fabulous and the dress looks great on you – especially with bare arms. What a great coat . Your work is terrific.

  8. spottedroo January 16, 2010 at 19:06 #

    Ack–those soups are making me hungry! And I just had dinner. *Love* soup in the winter. The dress looks fantastic and really flatters your arms. Is the wool lightweight enough to wear in warmer weather too?

  9. Katie January 16, 2010 at 19:11 #

    I’m drooling! Over the dress and the soup!! The combo of beautiful wool dress and warm soup is so cozy.

  10. vicki January 16, 2010 at 19:17 #

    Cute dress.

  11. Erica B. January 16, 2010 at 19:18 #

    That dress is so cute! I love Potato Leek Soup!

  12. Marjie January 16, 2010 at 19:19 #

    The dress is pretty; I love that color. From the way it hangs, I think you’re probably right that it would be too light for pants. It can be tricky getting the sizing right on a new pattern the first time, so it’s a good thing you went a size bigger than usual. And I love your soups! We’ve been even colder here, so I’m on a soup kick. That said, I’m rejoicing over 40 degrees and sunny today – but it’s supposed to get colder, with “wintry mix” coming in tomorrow. Blech.

  13. Vicki W January 16, 2010 at 19:24 #

    Pretty dress!

  14. kathleen January 16, 2010 at 19:48 #

    Oh what a pretty dress!(and your nails look nice too.) What style change? I thought that was on purpose.
    I would eat soup every day if I could get away with it, but the kids only allow 2 soups a week. Tortilla Soup is my favorite- no wait – Thai beef is my favorite…they are all my favorites

  15. peacockchic January 16, 2010 at 22:25 #

    oh wow I love pho but I never thought to make it myself. You go girl! I love the dress too my the way. Keeping kicking those pleats/tucks butt.

  16. jenmcox January 16, 2010 at 23:35 #

    Look at that waist! Wear that dress everyday!

  17. Katharine in Brussels January 17, 2010 at 04:41 #

    Mmmm… and I’m vegetarian, too! Hey, those pleats look very pretty. They pass the 1-metre rule (nothing glaring 1m away). Wear it with pride. A BBA might be yield the fit you want with fitted Burda dresses.

  18. Kelly January 17, 2010 at 05:49 #

    The dress looks good. I’d love to see your shoes and can you send over a bowl of that tortilla soup please.

  19. SallySews January 17, 2010 at 09:48 #

    You are being too hard on yourself – the tucks do need a bit of aligning where they end, but the dress looks adorable on you. It emphasizes a slim torso and is feminine without being “frilly”.

    I bought some of that stretch wool in black – haven’t used it, but did think it was a bit lighter than I expected. Thanks for the comment about your concerns for pant weight – perhaps a skirt suit would be in order for the fabric I bought?

  20. Nancy K January 17, 2010 at 09:55 #

    You pinpointed exactly why this dress looks great on you! It showcases your great upper body, including arms and skims over the thighs to give you a very flattering, slimming silhouette.
    The soups look wonderful too. Yum. I need to cook a few myself.

    • Miss Celie January 17, 2010 at 10:26 #

      Exactly! I wish I could go sleeveless all the time with a sign that says: Look Here!!

  21. Dei January 17, 2010 at 10:28 #

    Very cute dress despite your aversion to pleats. :)

    Tortilla soup! Yum buckets!

  22. tini January 17, 2010 at 11:18 #

    The dress is really cute and you look great in it. I think I have to go downstairs to make some soup soon (pumpkin-apple soup with ginger ;) )

  23. Linda January 17, 2010 at 13:23 #

    The dress looks great on you – and I would just say the pleats were a matter of deliberate artistic license! That thai soup makes me hungry..

  24. Shay January 17, 2010 at 16:45 #

    I would love to buy and wear this dress. I would hate to sew it!

  25. Meredith P January 17, 2010 at 18:30 #

    That dress looks GREAT on you! Issues with pleats/tucks certainly aren’t visibly noticeable, but stretch fabric would make them very difficult to keep even. I’m not even sure what would help while sewing: pinning the whole works to tissue paper during stitching?

    I’m putting that one on my list! And oh…the soups, yum. Particularly the beef one. Yum again!

  26. Mo January 17, 2010 at 19:16 #

    That looks great! Please add me to your blob subscription jmkim505 a_t yahoo d_o_t c o m.

  27. Marisa January 18, 2010 at 05:00 #

    That dress looks great on you! And I wouldn’t worry about the pleats not matching up exactly, I think it adds it’s own charm.

  28. senaSews January 18, 2010 at 10:31 #

    The dress looks so beautiful. Nicely done! Just pretend the irregular pleats are a design feature :-)

  29. Laura Georgina January 18, 2010 at 15:20 #

    The dress is lovely! Don’t worry about the pleats evenness–the only one that will know will be you (and, well, readers, but we promise not to tell and we all understand completely).

  30. Angela January 18, 2010 at 15:40 #

    Great dress! I love how you left the fullness of the skirt… it looks great! Also, I love your nail color that matches your turtleneck! :)

  31. Skitzo Leezra Studio January 18, 2010 at 15:49 #

    You need to hang out with some sewing newbies and give yourself a major break. That dress silhouette looks great on you! You inspire me to be a better seamstress but ya gotta realize how talented you really are.
    (Not loving the turtleneck underneath but wonder if you have a cute fitted jacket or cardigan that you could wear with the dress for a more polished look?)

  32. NuJoi January 18, 2010 at 15:58 #

    Love the dress and the soups. I was dreaming of chicken tortilla Fridat.

  33. Jean January 18, 2010 at 22:14 #

    Love that dress! And your soups look delicious — it has been rainy and cold here in California so a nice bowl of soup would be super comforting!

  34. Marie-Christine January 19, 2010 at 04:00 #

    I’ll take a bowl of that potato-garlic…
    I can’t believe you have so much trouble with pleats. Do you pick fabrics that press well and can take a sharp edge? Do you hand-baste and then press carefully before you get to the sewing machine? Are you careful to stitch in the direction that’ll go along the lay of the pleats, going in 2 directions if necessary? Do you raise the machine foot to relax the fabric before you attack a pleat head-on, if you can’t avoid it?
    It’s a horse to the hedge thing, you’ve got to pick an easy project to get over this traumatic stuff. Besides, this dress looks fabulous :-).

  35. pamperedbyadrienne January 19, 2010 at 11:12 #

    Cute dress! LOve the recipes you have made! You just made me hungry!

  36. amber January 19, 2010 at 12:10 #

    Oh, I love that dress on you! Really cute, both with and without the turtleneck. I just made baked potato soup last night (recipe from Cooking Light) – so yummy. I’m also drooling over that vietnamese beef noodle soup. Mmmm!

  37. Garnet January 20, 2010 at 12:56 #


    I love the way you matched your fingertips to your turtleneck! I also love the dress you made. It’s so pretty and flattering!


  38. The Slapdash Sewist January 21, 2010 at 17:44 #

    How did I miss this post??? Love the dress–it is totally your style, classic, professional, but with a little bit of visual interest and jumper friendly.

    Will have to try a vegetarian version of the tortilla soup.

  39. cacoyote January 22, 2010 at 02:35 #

    That grey dress fits you perfectly. As for those pleats, pick one length and make the rest match. No? They seem to be noticeable in the pix. (At least you’re sewing. I still have fabric in the bags!)


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