Hot time, summer in the city and all that, eh? In April, we went to Santa Fe for my 40th birthday. The night of my birthday dinner I did a wine pairing at a fancy Santa Fe restaurant. While I like my drink, I’m not a big drinker, but at the price point for the meal, I drank every last overpriced drop.
https://www.instagram.com/p/BEbkDfID-NU/
A few days after said dinner, the Concord Tee from Cashmerette patterns showed up in my mail box. Initially startled, I foggily remembered ordering it the night of said matched wine impaired dinner. Apparently, you can drunk purchase.
I was drawn to the Cashmerette line for the lack of an FBA. I mean, I can make them. But, I don’t like it. For my muslin, I cut an E/F cup (I’m a 34G bra) with a 12 bodice, grading out to a 16 at the hip ( For reference, these days I’m sewing a 40 in Burda on top w. a 1.5 – 2 inch inch or so FBA and a 40 grading to a 46 on the bottom.) . My bust measurement is spot on for Cashmerette’s 12 E/F. But, my waist and hip fell between the 14 and 16.
While the bust generally fit, I found overall the shirt was bigger/ had more ease that I wanted. In addition, the front neckline was really wide on me so that my bra would show and a little low – just a sliver of cleavage. I also noticed that there’s a bit of extra fabric width between my bust and shoulders. Plus, the shoulders are a hair too wide for me as drafted.
For my additional versions, I raised the neckline 1/4 inch and sewed 12; grading to just a 14 at the high hip. Much better (didn’t make the shoulder adjustment yet).
But, here in these sitting photo, you can see what I mean about there being a little more length or width than I need between the upper bust and the shoulder.
And, I can’t bend over in the v-neck version without exposing myself.
I’ve made about four of these shirts in the scoop and v-neck, medium length and short sleeved. I’ve since altered the pattern for what I think will work best of taking out that 2 cm of gaposis but don’t have more fabric to test it in. I’ve also narrowed the shoulder 1/4 inch. Next time I get my hands on some cotton knits, I’ll make up a few more too.
Oh, I initially sewed the muslin as a tunic. Which I didn’t care for on me. But, I didn’t save a photo because I’m an idiot.
As for the instructions, I kind of just glanced at them. The pattern provides a lot of handholding which an intermediate to advanced seamstress might find unnecessary. The pattern has V-neck instructions I’ve not seen before. I used my TNT v-neck method from the Sewing Athleticwear from the Singer Sewing Reference Library.
For my gray scoop neck version, I bound the neckline also using instruction from the Sewing Athleticwear volume of the Singer Sewing Reference Library. I did them this way because cotton knits tend to stretch. And this is a way of having a nice, snug yet still stretchy neckline. It’s a really pretty and very neat finish that I like doing.
Now, the $18 elephant in my room. Is this pattern worth it? For ease of use, absolutely. It’s nice to have a dartless tee that actually fits. And, while I need a few small alterations for it to be my ideal, that’s nothing compared to starting from scratch with a B or C cup pattern. Plus, it’s great when a pattern fits you out the envelope. But, in my view they really aren’t supposed to if you want the best fit possible 🙂
Miss Celie's Pants 
I really like all your versions! Hope the next one is just perfect! 😉
You’re right, it would be nice if they fit right out of the envelope, but they don’t. For me, the bust is always too tight, the shoulders too wide, the waist too wide, the length too long or too short. I think this pattern will be perfect for you when you perfect your tweaks. It already looks darn good. Do I need to find this Singer book?
I *really* like just about the entire series. I was lucky to get most of them in one fell swoop. But, I tend to turn to this one, Perfect Fit, Tailoring and Sewing Pants the most. I know folks like to Google. But, I really like having a book to turn to when I’m working out a technique!
On Sun, Jul 10, 2016 at 12:46 PM, Miss Celie's Pants wrote:
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Well, me, too! I am a book person when needing a reference. Thanks for the advice. I have borrowed the Sewing Lingerie one from the library, but they don’t have any of the others. I will look for it.
I love all these fabrics, Renee! We wear the same bra size, so I just might have to come up and steal I mean borrow your tees for the summer. 😉 I considered buying the pattern for the bust size, but then it would be more work everywhere else than my usual. But, you’re right, all patterns take work to achieve a perfect fit. ps. Your V necks are stellar. 👌🏻
Have you tried the free Deer & Doe plantain pattern? It’s built for a C-cup but it’s pretty forgiving in a stretch fabric, and might be worth comparing/frankenpatterning with your current T, especially in the shoulder area. One word of caution with it though: it’s a French pattern so it’s cut lower in front than some people are comfortable with. That can be solved by cutting the neckline in a smaller size. Love your fabric choices, especially those lobsters!
That extra length above the armscye happened to me too, as you know. I narrowed the pattern substantially before sewing my muslin so I didn’t have quite the same amount of extra width. I think the pattern is worth the cost for all the reasons you’ve cited but also because it’s good to support the indies. We’ve now got someone dealing with our FBAs for us. I say that’s worth a lot 🙂 I do have to make a lot of alterations to the patterns though (much as I do with every pattern brand). The back piece is the wildcard for me, too wide as drafted. But it gives me good opps to learn about fitting!
“…but don’t have more fabric to test it in.” Whoa – fightin’ words. How can you run out of fabric?
Your shirt is looking great. I love your lobsters.
Right?? Well, I don’t have anymore beefy cotton knits. I have a lot of poly and silk knits. But those are for dresses. I guess I’m a purist and want cotton knits for tee shirts.
On Sun, Jul 10, 2016 at 7:20 PM, Miss Celie's Pants wrote:
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“Drunk purchase” – that’s how my hair fairy (really – it’s magical what she can make my hair do!) ended up with a puppy. And then a dog stroller because a tiny dog just can’t handle a long walk.
I generally drunk purchase fabric. But I’m sober enough to have it delivered to the office so my better half doesn’t know. Shhhh!
I bought a dog basket for my bike in a fit of wine. I really should have my computer taken away from me after happy hour.
On Sun, Jul 10, 2016 at 8:38 PM, Miss Celie's Pants wrote:
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i’m always on the lookout for a *big bust* pattern that DOES NOT need a fba … i’ve looked at the concord tee but the price is …. high, for unproved … i loved your review and your different versions, however i’m not willing to *spend* my cotton knit fabric on a pattern with too many *iffs* … {www.etsy.com/shop/RaspberryCreekFabric — she has a line a fabric milled in LA for her shop — stripes, dots, floral and lots of c/l [cotton-lycra]} or try this shop {www.thefabricfairy.com — disregard her reference to kids knits – she has wonderful knits, plus board shorts microfiber fabric, great selection of colors and prints!}
have you tried any of the http://www.patternsforpirates.com/ patterns … she has a huge selection of indie-type self-drafted patterns: raglan tops, regular tees, dresses, swim suits, a free pencil skirt, and, that old standby {for some} a free pegleg pattern … worth a look and a check on her sizing – from very small to very large … also a tut on pivot and slide fba … Judy, the owner, knows what she’s doing making patterns … she has pages of images of different sized women modeling their creations … have a look …
I’ve heard of Patterns for Pirates but didn’t realize they drafted for an hourglass. I’ll have to check them out. And, thanks for the fabric suggestions! Without *knowing* and just making a guess, I think my small tweaks are likely more from not being a true plus size in the bodice. I think I might not as full as the draft is for. So, this could be a case of me trying to make it work against type. That said, I *think* I just need to take a horizontal dart out of the neckline and all shall be right in the world 🙂
On Mon, Jul 11, 2016 at 12:23 AM, Miss Celie's Pants wrote:
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I would totally rock your muslin, love the contrasting stripes. I also love the lobster version!
What’s wrong with a little cleavage? Va-va-voom! With your hourglass figure, I would totally be shakin’ what my Momma gave me (so to speak). 🙂
I kinda love the fact that we can both wear a t-shirt from the same pattern! Being on the fluffier side, I didn’t experience some of the challenges you did because I have padding in those spots. But I love that you don’t have to do an fba toget a good fitting t- shirt!
I was going to use ‘fluffier’ but didn’t want anyone to take offense, LOL! I think the draft is great. But, I think being at the smaller end of their size range and it’s not necessarily designed for my upper body build. But, that doesn’t stop it from being a good pattern for me either! Some of it may be the fabric. I’m wearing a different v neck today and the gaposis is not as pronounced. Seems the thicker/ more stable the knit the more gaposis. The scoop neck is PERFECTION.
On Mon, Jul 11, 2016 at 11:50 AM, Miss Celie's Pants wrote:
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Thank you for sharing detailed information about sizing. I waver between a 34G and 36G cup size and am still trying to figure out what size I should cut in bodices. Having seen your and Debbie’s versions of the Concord Tee, I have to get this pattern.
Off topic: I want to encourage you to get on that winter coat sewing now! I know it seems counter-intuitive to sew wool when it’s 80+ degrees, but it’ll be icy and cold before you know it! KDK’s method of applying sew-in interfacing is SUPER easy. Girl. Just do it! =)
I admit the pattern seems like a big cash investment. But, the more I wear these tops the more I think it’s worth it. Debbie’s helped sell me too. The fit was so good. I too was unsure because I’m not a true plus size (more a bridge size). But, the bust draft is so good that it works.
KDK once left a comment on my blog suggesting I use my blind hemmer to do my hair canvas stitching. I should try that. But, yes! I have got to get started on a coat before August. I literally have four planned.
On Wed, Jul 13, 2016 at 8:37 AM, Miss Celie's Pants wrote:
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Love the fabrics you used for each one! I like your description of bridge size, I am there also and petite/short/vertically challenged.
Hi! I was just wondering what the skirt is you are wearing with the lobster tee? The peach button up? Is it RTW or memade? It’s so cute!
Thanks! It’s me made! https://missceliespants.com/2016/06/29/button-front-skirt-burdastyle-9-2009-125/ It’s a Burdastyle skirt from 2009. I’m not sure if it’s on the website. I think I tried to look for it to link and couldn’t find it.
On Thu, Jul 14, 2016 at 11:44 PM, Miss Celie's Pants wrote:
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I’m glad you reviewed this not as this is perfect out of the envelope because it isn’t. I had more issues with mine than you, but some of the same ones. Neck too wide and too low, and the hated extra fabric above the bust. I found that there wasn’t quite enough ease for my comfort, and off the top of my head I can’t remember what sizes I used, but you are thinner and can wear a top closer to the body than I like for me. I did get one that I wear, but the neckline was still too wide and too deep. Anyway I bought it for the same reason you did, no fba and no dart. I wanted to see how she made it dartless. Worth the $18, maybe. I love that you got it to fit you so perfectly. If it’s simple it better fit well! It’s nice for stripes and other prints that you want to match.
I have to say my crewneck/scoop version is pretty good. But, does still have the fabric fold above the bust. I’m wondering if it’s because my bust is low/ not as full on top? It’s definitely a good pattern. And, again, LOVE the no FBA and ‘built in’ swayback. But, yes. A little too wide and a little too deep but not deal breakers.
On Mon, Jul 25, 2016 at 4:12 PM, Miss Celie's Pants wrote:
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It’s a bummer you still needed to make changes, but your tees look great, and I think you’re right. A few tweaks really is unavoidable.