Posted in sewing

Jalie Jeans x Three: Jalie 2908

This post is really more of a brain dump so I can remember what I did when I make these again. My tee shirt is the Cashmerette Concord Tee Shirt.

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These creamscicle / seersucker denim photos were taken last weekend when we were in Kansas City for a wedding.

Back in September 2015 I promised you an update on my Jalie jeans. Well, I never wrote an update.

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I can tell you I wore three pairs of Jalie Jeans daily for the last 18 months and it was time to start replacing them. My jeans wear out at inner thigh regularly.

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I asked Jordan to take photos of my butt while we were walking around like tourists. A man in the store to the right was just staring at us totally befuddled.

So, I made three different pairs over the last few months to hopefully get me through the next two years: The above cropped creamscicicle denim pair, the below straight-ish, and the end flared pair.

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When I make jeans, I buy a ridiculous eight to ten yards of denim. I treat the first pair as a muslin and make the other two pairs up based on how the first pair fit after a few weeks of wear. I like my jeans to stay snug.

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Alterations:

Waistband: I used the waistband from the the Closet Case Patterns Ginger Jeans as a starting point. After several rounds, I’ve contoured the waistband specifically at center back and at the side seams. I use a firm woven interfacing in the waistband to help reduce the stretch AND I use narrow twill tape in the waist band seam. The Jalie waistband is garbage. It’s straight and cut on the bias and just doesn’t work for anyone I personally know.

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Yoke: I do the same contouring of the yoke to snug up the back seam closer to my swayback.

Crotch adjustments:

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  • I made a bit of a large inner thigh adjustment by widening the back crotch.
  • I shorted the front crotch by 1/2 inch or I get this above fold at the center front. Actually, this is AFTER a 1/2 inch adjustment. I need to take out maybe another 1/4 inch (as I’ve done for the orange pair).
  • I made a knock knee adjustment

Time to transfer my pattern to stock paper because it’s a keeper!

For the rest of the jeans I just played with leg width. Rule of thumb for flares: make them as wide as your shoes. I wear a 8.5W / 9M/ 40EU.

My topstitching thread is Tex 80 available locally for me but also from Wawak.

Below are my flared pair. These were the first pair I sewed of this set and the crotch was CRAZY long as drafted. I actually took them apart — removing 1/2 inch from the length and they are still too long in the crotch.

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This top belonged to my mom

I finally resolved the length by removing another 1/4 inch in the first pair shown at the top. But, here you can see the extra fabric the length gives.

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I sew jeans with two machines. My Singer Featherweight does main construction and my Bernina 830 Record does topstitching. I love love love the top stitching and 1/4 inch foot for my Bernina. It makes such nice precise lines. I may even set up a third machine one day if I do two tone topstitching.

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Whew. I planned on taking many photos of my construction process but had a series of camera issues. But, there are a million great resources online now for fitting jeans.

 

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I am totally comfortable with the jeans making process. I’d like to make a pair of Morgan jeans this fall. And, a few more of these Jalie for the rotation. But, I am seriously considering a pants making class this year. I miss wearing pants and haven’t been successful in making a good fitting pair in many years.

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28 thoughts on “Jalie Jeans x Three: Jalie 2908

  1. I knew I’d read somewhere about an issue with the Jalie waistband, but couldn’t remember what on earth it was. Thanks for the reminder, and a fix!

    1. It is the WORST. I’m not really sure what was going on there. I can only assume a contoured waistband would take up too much space on the pattern sheets. The Closet Case waistband is the bomb diggity though. Mine probably looks too much like a trouser waistband. But, it snugs up and stays put!

      On Mon, May 22, 2017 at 1:43 AM, Miss Celie's Pants wrote:

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    1. Flattery will get you everywhere, Jay! Thank you! I’m still a little annoyed about the extra crotch length. But, I guess I need *some* fabric to move 😄

      On Mon, May 22, 2017 at 2:36 AM, Miss Celie's Pants wrote:

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    1. Thank you! It’s funny. My mom had me alter it for her about six years ago because it was too big. I’m so grateful now for those generous side seams. Otherwise, it would never it me. There are so many great details in it (and the matching skirt) that I would just never sew myself.

      On Mon, May 22, 2017 at 3:45 AM, Miss Celie's Pants wrote:

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  2. Wow, great fit! My problem with sewing stretch jeans is I can never recreate the same fit because of the different behaviour of various stretch denims. I would love to find a fabric range with different colours and same weight and elasthane content. No luck so far!

    1. Wouldn’t that be great? I end up buying these long lengths so I can recreate the jeans over an over. But, I would far rather have some in different colors in the same fabric. I wish sewing worked a bit more like yarn and we could find the same thing in different colorways pretty easily.

      On Mon, May 22, 2017 at 4:33 AM, Miss Celie's Pants wrote:

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  3. I always admire how determined and steadfast you have to be to sew a well fitted pair of jeans. It was interesting to read your progress. A pants fitting class is something, ive started to think of also since my body is changing yet again.

  4. Your butt looks amazing in those jeans! I’ve got several jeans patterns, and some denim, but haven’t braved into attempting anything. I hate stretch denim because after a few hours I have to yank them up when I stand. I have 100% cotton denim to make an old-fashion pair. Gotta hire a housekeeper so I can spend my weekends sewing.

    1. Yes! This is why I wanted to try the Morgan pattern. I have some non stretch denim and would like to recreate my old jeans of the 90s! When you’re done with that housekeeper, can you send them my way?

      On Mon, May 22, 2017 at 7:34 AM, Miss Celie's Pants wrote:

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  5. Amazing perseverance! I think you’ve done an amazing job modifying the jeans and style to make it look great on you. I do the same for topstitching, it’s so much easier to have a separate machine for the topstitch thread. I love the Tex 80 too, it changed my life! Well, you know what i mean. I get mine at Steinlauf and Stoller in NYC and bought about every color they had last time I was in — just in case.

    Great work!

    1. HA! I too bought just about every single color of the Tex 80 thread 😀 You know… just in case.

      On Mon, May 22, 2017 at 11:59 AM, Miss Celie's Pants wrote:

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  6. I love a good jeans story! I did Kenneth King’s Jeanius online class to get my TNT jeans (at least I had a pair that fit that I could copy), and it does take a number of iterations to get it just right. It sounds like a lot of work, but when your results are that close to start with, it’s a pleasure to put in the time.
    Curved waistband, higher back rise, and maybe a well placed dart or two.
    Hooray for jeans!

    1. It’s totally worth it! I just wish I could account for variation of stretch in different fabric. I really should start measuring the elastic content and jotting them down. It would probably help a lot!

      On Mon, May 22, 2017 at 2:01 PM, Miss Celie's Pants wrote:

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    1. Thanks, Elle! There are very few pieces of her clothes I have. But, I love the ones I managed to keep.

      On Mon, May 22, 2017 at 3:08 PM, Miss Celie's Pants wrote:

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    1. Thanks! I have several of your pants bookmarked. I’m really hoping I can start making some that fit me.

      On Mon, May 22, 2017 at 4:42 PM, Miss Celie's Pants wrote:

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  7. OH MY GOSH that top is stunning!!! It’s beautiful! Yes, this is about the jeans…but that top! 😀
    Nice work on the jeans! I don’t wear jeans much but boy do I love to make them! It’s so zen…and you’ve got a TNT here with the Jalie.

    1. You’ve made such great jeans! I’m lucky that with my current job jeans are ok (especially since I have the slacks problem). I can intersperse them with my trusty stable of dresses.

      On Mon, May 22, 2017 at 4:54 PM, Miss Celie's Pants wrote:

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  8. You’re right about the Jalie waistband. I tried that foolishness once and am firmly in the Nah camp. Instead, I contoured my waistband using a tutorial from Jennifer Stern and haven’t had a problem since. Your jeans look really good!

    1. Thanks! I think I tried my own using a tutorial from A Fashionable Stitch. But, I lost it in the graveyard of my sewing room.

      On Wed, May 24, 2017 at 8:10 AM, Miss Celie's Pants wrote:

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