Posted in sewing

Butterick 5562: Ruched Sleeve Knit Top

After completing the Trina Turk dress I still had red thread on the serger. I pulled out Butterick 5562 from the stash and a red bamboo knit from Fashionmart.  I know. TWO non Burda patterns in a row! I always forget that I have an actual stash of Big 4 patterns 🙂 Oh, and my point and shoot camera HATES red.

The reviews on PR noted that the shirt was generally big. The pattern runs XS-S-M.  I originally planned to make a medium. But, after checking the finished measurements, I decided to go with a SMEDium. Small in the shoulders, medium around the bust, small at the waist and medium through the hips. That and a FBA gave me a terrific fit.

Again, I made a dartless FBA with 3/4 inch in width added at the bust point and 2 inches in length added below the bust point. The two inches was over kill, one would have been fine. I also made a one inch swayback adjustment (hence the seam up the back).

I first thought the sleeves were pleated (a very Burda technique). But, it is in fact all done with gathering and elastic. I used clear elastic for the vertical gathers.

The pattern has you set in the sleeve. But, I ease stitched it with mixed results. You can see some parts didn’t ease as evenly as others. Not enough to bother me though!

The knit is drapey and about two years old (back in my ‘I need more solid colors’ phase). It was only well after I’d cut out the pattern that I realized I hadn’t pre-treated. I’ m sure it’ll wash fine though.

Other notes? I used bias knit interfacing in the neck and hemline. I just turned those down and top stitched with a twin needle. I didn’t bother hemming the sleeves. The shirt is long. But, I like that! No back crack 🙂

That’s it. I made this Friday night between washing and twisting my hair. Red is such a good color for me, but after pledging in college I stopped wearing it as often (my sorority colors were not red).

My jeans are Levis BTW. I wear 505 (Straight Leg “Straight and roomy through the seat, thigh and leg“),  512 (Perfectly Slimming “flattens your tummy with a hidden panel while it shapes and smoothes your curves”), and 529 (Curvy Boot Cut “stretch fit that flatters, with a rise that contours to your every curve”). These work really really well for me. Smaller waist, larger hips, deep curve for the posterior. And, I can get a pretty good price for them on sale at Macy’s. I’ve also gotten to the point that I buy multiple pairs of them at a time. Actually, I try on jeans, find a good pair, then email Trena. Same shape, I’m just three times as big 🙂

I have one last red dress cut out to be sewn. Hopefully to be worn to work on Valentine’s Day and another to be work for Valentine’s dinner.

My Pattern Review is here

Posted in sewing

Pattern Review: Burda Magazine, 9-2010-121 Turtleneck

I don’t think this counts as a review. Burda 9-2010-121 was so simple I didn’t even look at the directions. The pattern is three pieces. I did make a swayback adjustment so that necessitated a center back seam. I made a 40. I should have made a 38.

My first version is black and I made that Sunday night in maybe two hours from trace to sew. For the second go round, it literally took me less than an hour to make. In fact, I made it before going to work on Monday morning. I widened the bicep by about an inch and lengthened the sleeve another inch. I really wanted that exaggerated cuff. This rayon knit is from PR Weekend in Montreal. I *almost* gave it to Trena because I couldn’t quite picture me in it and she likes this kind of avocado green. It’s ok, I have other stuff for her 🙂

To secure the turtleneck, I stitched in the ditch along the two side and back neck seam. I didn’t finish hemming the top. You know I don’t usually bother hemming knits. I might on this one. Depends on if I can find my twin needle anytime soon.

There’s not much more to say. Easy peasy. Simple basic. I’m sure I’ll be making lots of these for years to come.

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Oldie But a Goodie

I had dinner plans last  night with a boy and wasn’t sure what exactly to wear. Mostly because I wasn’t sure if it was a date or not. After consultation with Christina and Leslie I came up with jeans and a top.  I wanted casual but sexy. We weren’t meeting up until 10 p.m. so I wanted a little New York but a lot of me. It’s getting cool at night here, so I wanted sleeves. I needed something easy, so I needed a knit. Enter Burda 5-2002-108.

It's a thin knit so it looks kinda wrinkly, but in person it's nice and casual

It’s not meant to be worn pulled over the hips like I do below. But, when I wore it like I did last night (above) it looks kind of sloppy in the photos

The pattern is made up of four pieces with cut on sleeves. My fabric is from Jomar in Philly and was about $2 a yard.

You get the look of a wrap without using up all that fabric. I love it as it’s kind of geometric but simple.

The color above is closest to real life color. I didn’t hem the waistband or the sleeves. I just don’t believe in it for casual knits 😉 Total project time, under two hours. All construction on the serger with top stitching of the neckline on my sewing machine.

Here’s the back, similar with a less deep V

Slightly lower than I would normally wear for someplace like work. But, it was for a possible date and we were going to have the flush out his intentions early. A girl has got to do what a girl has got to do.

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There’s no money in this for me

A sad, but true thought came to me today. I will NEVER make money sewing for other people. Because I cannot meet a deadline. You see, my friend Jon asked me if I would make a dress for his wife for her birthday. In 2008. Maybe even summer of 2008. He even offered to pay me my asking price. And yet, I did not sew it. They were going to Belize in January. A good a time as any to make up Simplicity 3503 for her. Nothing. But, the weather broke and my daffodils bloomed.


I was feeling motivated.

Finally, this week I told myself to at least cut it out. I even did a single layer layout so I’d have enough fabric for a top for me. And tonight, I bailed on bookclub (never did get a copy of the Love Languages) and just sewed. Couple hours later I was done. This maxi dress is pretty much the same as I made it before.


The finishing is a little cleaner in terms of I knew how it was going to go together.


The knit was from online and is a poly blend. The wife is Indian and we’re near the same complexion. So, I hope the yellow pops the same way. If I were making this for myself again, I would add a lining. It’s pretty thin and should be worn with a slip. Unless you are a hussy like me and don’t bother. I’m a little sad letting this go because I think it’s really cute. I think I still see another one for me in my future.


So, the short list: one more dress that I was asked to make. The Weekender bag I’ve been ignoring. And maybe a new dress for the high school reunion I can’t decide if I’m going to.

Posted in sewing

Not a wadder

The second easy knit top I started last weekend is 3-2005-108 BWOF. It’s a 3/4 sleeve v-neck. I used fabric from Gorgeous Fabrics, leftover from my last maxi dress. I figured the pattern was so simple, it was ideal for showing off this large statement print.

For this, I took care to match the sides, because I wanted the hem print to be consistent all the way around.

I didn’t take the same care with the raglan sleeves because I think it was busy enough that it wouldn’t stand out.

My lapped v isn’t as deep as the original.

I used the border trim for the v-neck and for my added sleeve bands. I also reinforced the V with a knit interfacing. The BWOF directions aren’t great for the v-neck. I pulled out my Singer Sewing Reference Library: Sewing Activewear, on V necklines for their instructions.

I didn’t make a swayback adjustment on the pattern and it still worked out pretty well.

I really like this top! It’s easy. It’s a great basic. I’m definitely making it again.

You know, I never considered adding a couple more buttons to yesterday’s dress. But, now, maybe I will. Thanks!

I’ve finished my lining for the second version of the Sherlock Holmes dress. Now, I just need to insert zipper, add collar and hem. Very exciting.