Burda 9-2012-109: Black Eyelet Dress

I needed a dark / black dress that I hadn’t just been seen in.  I really don’t have a lot of dark clothing. Since I had minimal time to sew, I chose something I’d already traced and worked out my fit issues,  Burda 9-2012-109. I made it first in a blue sweater knit. This time, I sewed it up in a woven black cotton eyelet from my stash.

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Since the dress was going to be SO BORING in solid black, I decided I wanted sleeves with an impact. I stole these awesome flutter sleeves out of the December 2011 Burda.

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These sleeves give both me and the dress life!  I actually wish I could have made the dress this came on (below).

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But, I was 3/4 of a yard short in the only other black fabric I have. Actually, I had to cut two inches off the length of this dress to eek all the parts out of this dress.

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The fit was pretty loose and I ended up taking in the waist by a total of three inches. I’d already worked out my French dart FBA from my knit version. I also added binding to the neck, like the knit version.

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The dress is lined in a rayon lining (breathable for summer). The hemline is done with Snug Hug seam tape and my blind hem. The lining is sewn with my coverstitch using the hemmer/ feller foot from Brother.

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I love it when a plan comes together (and I get to use every single machine in my arsenal). Of course, since this was practically made overnight, now my mom thinks I can make a dress at the drop of a hat! But, this was already worked out and just three pattern pieces and made interesting with the sleeves.

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I’m going to see if I have enough of my pink and cream seersucker to make another.


  1. Oh how I love this pattern. I have the pullover cut out but have yet to sew it up. I like how you added the flutter sleeves. So unique.

    And BTW because of your last post I lost the ongoing fight against getting a coverstitch machine. I bought the same model as you and It is on its way to me and will arrive on MONDAY!!! I have never used one before so it should be….interesting 🙂

    • I’m super excited for you!!!! I really really am loving the coverstitch. It takes a little getting used to but the results are wonderful. Once I get the hang of it I hope to post some more photos on all the lovely things I can do with it now. And, this is fitting. Because after your last post I decided to reorganize and move my sewing room to a spare room. You inspired me too!!

      • You are such a wonderful/naughty influence ;oP The dress is lovely, such a clever idea to add the flutter sleeves to it! I hope there will be some photos of you actually in it.

  2. THis is such an epic pattern – I’ve made it more times than I can remember. It’s got great lines but is a simple sew. Love your version!

    • It was your version(s) that got me to try it as a woven! It really is a great little pattern. I’ll be making this over and over again.

  3. I love how a simple design can look awesome with a few little tweaks! Beautifully done!

  4. Oh, I wish I could see a picture of you wearing it. I love flutter sleeves. They are cool and so flattering to most people’s arms. This is quite a lovely dress.

  5. Renee – what a lovely dress (the sleeves make the dress, seriously)! We forget what doing something cah-razy with the sleeves can do for a simple dress (which is why I love Ronda Chaney’s book, “Make It Your Own” because he shows all sorts of things that you can do to change sleeves to dress them up).

  6. Honestly, you wouldn’t want to make the other dress. I am sewing the longsleeved version right now and the fit is awful (like the whole pattern).

    • Ugh! Really? It’s been on my ‘to sew’ list for two years. I was even thinking of just making the top versions since I didn’t have enough fabric for the dress.

      • Normally Burda fits me with just a few little alterations, but with this pattern I had to make the upper front pieces three times, until the fitted. The pleats in the pattern look very different to the pleats in the picture and the skirt is not a full as it should be.
        And honestly. It’s a satin dress and making a full shirt sleeve with cuffs and a vent is a very bad idea.
        You absolutley can make this dress, but you should make a muslin first at any cost.

  7. This dress is just gorgeous.LOVE the sleeves. I was surprised to learn that a pattern originally for a knit dress would work for a woven fabric.

  8. how lovely! would love to see it on you. i am just starting to sew clothes again and im in awe of your talent! you are my inspiration :o) lol no pressure!

  9. Wow, great dress! I love the sleeves – such a great idea to jazz it up! I’m looking forward to more posts about your cover-stitch machine. It’s my next big purchase so I love reading up on what others have to say about them.

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